How to Photograph Light Orbs: A Complete Light Painting Tutorial
The glowing orb, a perfect floating sphere of light, is the shot that hooks most people on light painting. It looks like CGI and takes about five minutes to learn. We are Ants on a Melon, we shoot these constantly, and this guide covers the whole thing: the gear, the exact camera settings, the spin technique, a few variations, and how to fix the mistakes everyone makes at first. It is a deeper dive on the orb from our light painting tutorials.
Stage 1: Set up your light, string, and space
An orb needs surprisingly little: a camera with Manual or Bulb mode (a phone with a long-exposure app works), a tripod, a small bright light on a string, and darkness. We use the RGB Critter BT on a short cord so we can pick any color from the app, but any small bright light works to learn.
- Tie your light to a string about 30 to 40 cm long. Knot it tight; a light that flies off mid-spin ends the session fast.
- Set the light to one bright, solid color. Save the color-changing tricks for later; a single hue reads cleanest on your first orbs.
- Find a dark space, indoors or out. The darker the background, the cleaner the sphere.
- Put the camera on the tripod and pick the exact spot where you will stand. Mark it with your shoe, a coin, anything you can find again in the dark.
Stage 2: Learn the spin-and-turn (before you touch the shutter)
Practice this with the camera off. The motion is the whole trick, and thirty seconds of dry runs saves twenty ruined exposures.
- Stand on your mark and spin the light in a steady vertical circle at your side, like turning a small wheel next to your hip.
- Lock in one speed and one arm position. Every pass of the string should trace the same diameter.
- While spinning, slowly rotate your whole body a full 360 degrees on the spot.
- Aim to finish exactly one full body turn in about the time your exposure will run.
That is the entire technique. The vertical circle draws the sphere; turning your body wraps it all the way around into a ball.
Three habits that make the circle perfect
- Even speed beats fast. One smooth, complete rotation looks better than three rushed ones.
- Keep your arm and the string length constant so every pass traces the same diameter.
- Turn your body at a steady rate that finishes exactly one full circle by the end of the exposure.
Stage 3: Camera settings and the shot
These starting settings work in almost any dark location. Adjust from here, not from scratch.
- Mode: Manual or Bulb
- Shutter: 20 to 30 seconds (long enough to finish a full turn)
- ISO: 200
- Aperture: f/8
- Focus: manual, pre-focused where you will stand
- White balance: Daylight
Then shoot it:
- Pre-focus on your mark. The easiest way: stand a light on the spot, focus on it, then switch the lens to manual so the focus cannot hunt in the dark.
- Start the exposure with a 2-second timer or a remote so you do not shake the camera, and walk to your mark.
- Do the spin-and-turn exactly as you practiced: steady vertical circle, slow full-body rotation.
- Finish the complete turn before the shutter closes, then stop and hold still.
- Check the back of the camera. Adjust one thing at a time: turn speed first, then brightness or ISO.
Variations to try
- Orb beside a person: have someone stand still just outside the spin; the floating orb next to a sharp subject is the classic look.
- Color-shift orb: set the RGB Critter BT to a slow color cycle so the sphere fades through hues.
- Orb in a location: place it over water, a trail, or a cityscape for context and reflections.
- Floating orb: shoot from a low angle so the sphere appears to hover in mid-air.
Troubleshooting: fix it in one reshoot
Every one of these has a boring, mechanical cause. Nothing here is a gear problem.
| Problem | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Gap in the sphere | Turned too fast or did not finish the rotation | Slow down; match your turn to the shutter time |
| Wobbly, uneven ball | Spin speed or arm position changed | Keep one steady speed and a fixed arm |
| You appear in the shot | Light clothing or stood still too long | Wear black and keep moving |
| Orb too dim or too bright | Light brightness or ISO off | Adjust brightness in the app, or drop ISO to 100 |
Gear you'll want
The light itself
App-controlled, 170 lumens, 16 million colors and 145+ modes from your phone, and it works without the app too. It is also the removable core behind 200+ twist-on light painting tools, so it will not stop at orbs.
Starting from zero
The beginner bundle saves $54 versus buying the pieces separately.
Once orbs feel easy
Light Painting Blades and the rest of the light painting tools
Same twist-on light, completely different marks in the frame.
Want to pick your own combination?
Build it in the Kit Builder
FAQ: Light Orbs
How do you make a light orb in photography?
Spin a light on a string in a steady vertical circle while slowly turning your body a full 360 degrees, all during one long exposure on a tripod.
What settings do I use for light orbs?
Start at a 20 to 30 second shutter, ISO 200, f/8, manual focus, Daylight white balance, in a dark space.
What light is best for orbs?
A small, bright, single-color light on a string. An app-controlled light like the RGB Critter BT lets you change the orb's color and brightness easily.
Why is my orb not a full sphere?
Almost always because the body turn did not complete in time. Slow the turn so one full rotation finishes as the shutter closes.
Can I shoot light orbs with a phone?
Yes. Any phone with a long-exposure app, held steady on a tripod, can capture an orb. The technique is identical; only the shutter control changes.
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